2005 cooper door cable

3 comments

  1. I think if you search through the various links below in there are various photos of the cables, instructions, etc which may help you:
    [URL]http://www.mini2.com/forum/first-generation-faults-fixes/173904-passenger-door-not-opening-inside.html[/URL]

    [URL]http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/stock-problems-issues/138109-door-locks-bowden-cable-service-bulletin.html[/URL]

    [URL]http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=RC32&mospid=48010&btnr=51_7749&hg=51&fg=10[/URL]

    [URL]http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=RC32&mospid=48010&btnr=51_7750&hg=51&fg=10[/URL]

    [URL]http://forum.minicooper.org/showthread.php?t=12626[/URL]

    [URL]http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/stock-problems-issues/99835-door-lock-problems-6.html[/URL]

  2. [B]Quote from MINI2.com:[/B]

    [B]Passenger Door Not Opening From Inside[/B]
    We have an '05 Cooper S cabrio. Just found this thread searching for the FAQ on getting the door panels off.
    [URL]http://www.mini2.com/forum/faq.php?faq=faq_interior#faq_faq_removal[/URL]

    We had the passenger door experience this problem following a heavy handed passenger who didn't realise you need to pull the handle once to unlock and again to open with the engine running.
    I took the door apart but failed to find the problem so we paid the main dealer to sort it out. They managed to clip the cable wrong so when the window wound down it snapped the cable requiring a repeat visit – doh!

    In the recent UK cold weather the driver door experienced the same problem.
    The internal handle was completely free like the cable was detached.
    I felt a bit braver about taking the door to bits to find the problem.
    It turns out that the cable had come unhooked at the lock end.

    Getting at the lock is a PITA so put some cardboard on the ground to sit on, catch the screws and get a torch, you'll need it. You'll also need a size 30 Torx, long and short flat screwdrivers as in the faq for removing the door panel and a cross head screwdriver for the internal door release.

    Remove the door panel as per the FAQ.
    Unscrew the 3 screw holding the internal handle on so you can easily rotate it 90 degrees from the cable and release the end nearest the door. The cable outer is just slotted into the door handle mechanism held by three ridges in the cable holder.
    Removing the internal handle is necessary to get enough slack to reattached the lock end.

    Carefully prise off the rubber boot over the internal door lock button pushrod where it enters the door internal skin so you can see what you're up to.
    The cable is secured to the inside door skin with a cable clip near that hole, I released this to get more movement in the cable, don't forget to reattach it later.

    Sticking your head inside the door cavity you should be able to see the point where the door lock push rod is attached and behind it where the internal release cable enters the doorlock.

    There is a gap in the door lock casing where the cable enters and the outer side of the cover can be prised open with a screw driver. It unclips at the top and folds down towards the outer skin of the door.

    With that cover open you need to get your index finger right inside.
    You should now be able to feel the end of the cable which is rectangular with a rectangular hole punched in it. That's what connects to the mechanism.
    You can rotate that by carefully turning the cable at the other end to line it up with the level and move it back and forward from the other end too.

    Feel for the lever that releases the door with your index finger hooked towards the inside skin of the door
    Hooking a nail over it and pulling it hard you should be able to at least get it to move if not unlatch the door. Now it's just a question of moving the cable (using the other end) backwards and forwards guiding it over the lever with your finger in the lock.
    There is a probably a smarter way to do that but I found patience and perseverance paid off.

    Once you've reattached the cable take a few moments to reclip the cable inside the door, reattach the internal door release, reclip the cover on the door lock that protects the end of the cable entering the door lock and put the door lock button boot back in place. If the cable is too slack it won't release the door even if it is connected at both ends.

    Test the mechanism by pushing the shaft of a screw driver into the lock where the pin normally engages (carefully without scratching it up) and releasing with the handle externally and then internally.

    Once you're confident test the door by closing it & opening it from inside. Making sure that you test the external door handle in case you've disturbed it by accident.

    FWIW the exterior and internal cables appear to be totally seperate. I unscrewed the 3 torx holding the lock into the door but that didn't make any part of the process easier and I wouldn't bother again.

    I think I may order a spare cable from BMW next time I'm there so if it comes off again I can replace it quickly.

    Thanks for the forum – saved us a few quid again!

    [URL]http://www.mini2.com/forum/first-generation-faults-fixes/173904-passenger-door-not-opening-inside.html#post3787608[/URL]

  3. Having had some great advice regarding the door lock assembly and workings i have found i need a new cable from the interior handle to the lock assembly to enable the door to be opened from the inside ,however working blind is not the best way to work ,so any suggestions please as to how to fit the cable (bowden cable i believe) would be greatly appreciated:)
    Please help make my life easier

Leave a comment