Cooper Bodyshell

4 comments

  1. I'm new to the forum as I don't own a Cooper yet. Sold my MK1 Mexico and want to buy a Cooper.

    I'm going to seewhat has been described as a very verygood andoriginal1966 Austin Cooper.

    My first question is, is there any difference between a standard Mini bodyshell and a Cooper one. Having owned a Mexico you'll see where I'm coming from with that one!

    What should I pay? I know this is the impossible question, but could anyone please give me a clue?

  2. imported post

    Just like Ford :shock:Mexico's there are a lot of fake cars about!

    Start with the numbers:- Chassis number on a screw on plate on radiator shroud, should read C-A2S7 followed by 6 digit number.

    On the same shroud there is a spotweldedplate with largeraised letters starting with FE ******

    On the bonnet slam panel there should be another spotwelded plate carrying the fivedigit body number, these last two numbers are not recorded in the logbook but if you post them up on this forum somebody can check them against build record dates.

    Inside the boot there should be a carpeted wooden 'boot board' which is held in place by two horizontal brackets either riveted or spotweldedto the rear bulkhead.[welded version started late '66 so this car could be either] There are three other support brackets along the rear edge, again riveted. Only theCooper shells had these brackets, so check them carefully for originality.

    The dash rails and front screen pillarsshould be covered in black vinyl which was glued in place and difficult to get right.

    Have a look at the hole in the tunnel where the gearstick comes out, this should be a neatly cut square hole with radiused corners, the two corners on the top of the tunnel have a much larger radius than the lower ones. Have a look at the blanking plate which covers the hole where the old type long g/stick would come out, this platewas sealed with mastic at the factory before the shell was painted.

    Other more obvious things:- Mk1 rear lights, small rear screen, external door hinges, door courtesy switches, square type DR3A wiper motor, opening rear side windows with piano hinges, sun visors mounted at the ends,not in the centre, hydrolastic suspension with all the extra pipe clips and the larger holes in the front crossmember for the pipes etc.

    I recommend you get a copy of John Parnell's book where most of these points are covered in detail. If in any doubt ask on this forum before parting with your money, most of the genuine cars are known by members anyway. hope this helps. Bob
    ps. not sure about prices:)

  3. imported post

    That looks a decent little car. Yet another with my 'pet hate' of the upside down door trim panel! and seemingly no interior handle? It's certainly had a later front panel and that chassis number looks a bit homemade doesn't it(:shock:)…. You'd want to see what the sills are like under all the black paint too……

    It would be fair to expect a very good example for that money.

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