Mini Cooper Register
Hey guys, just a question—
I have replaced the hardie-spicers with original rubber crosses, including the output shafts, I have installed them with the proper clearances for the shims etc,
Why would one side be harder to turn than the other ???? The passengers side of the diff is easy to turn, the other side is quite hard to turn. I noticed it was quite hard to turn even before I tightened up the side cover.
Any ideas ??? If it will come right, well thats good, but if it does'nt, what a hassle that would be !!!!
Hi interesting question . I suggest its a process of elimination . You don't say where your measuring the rotautional torque but assuming its directly at the coupling then I would disconnect the ' rubber doughnut' and recheck freedom of rotation each side of the diff- it should be the same for clockwise and anti clockwise . If its not then then the bearings need a close inspection for brinelling.What ever you do – don't assume it will come right . Regards Bruce
It has had all new bearings with the right shims and torqued up correctly, and it hasn't got the donuts on.
Had similar problem when I built a X pin diff ……. when you rotate the outputs in different directions or different relative speeds the diff would appear to bind up but you could still turn each out put by hand but difficult.
Took it to Minispeed who in their opinion reckoned that within a few miles of use would right itself .
Car still not on the road yet but this was their opinion
I had the same problem during my GT/S box diff rebuild, I put the coupling flange on, torque the bolt a little, and the two sides turn with a different resistance, almost unbearable, so I took out all the shims and try again, problem gone, finally I use less than spec requires shim, less 5 thous from the spec and try fitting again with smooth equal resistance on both sides now!
now the diff bearing should have no preload and if the end cover is true and the diff housing can clamp the bearings tight, I see no point the bearing outer race will spin, shims can take up the gap but zero preload should be fine, new diff bearing have no inner or outer side to identlfy? are you using the NOS one?
“It has had all new bearings with the right shims and torqued up correctly, and it hasn't got the donuts on.
I had this problem in a MK II diff I rebuilt. Turned out to be the diff thrust washers. I'd bought them from Minispares and they were too thick by about 10 thou. Careful use of a sheet of 600 grade on a very flat surface did the trick. Measurement of the small pile I have here indicates they should be about 35 thou thick. Cheers.
Now minispares made 2 types of fibre washers, the gen 35 thou one and the thick 43 thou?? Measure before you fit them, I had the same problem when first order my washer, not even the two output shafts difficult to turn but you can use a feeler guage to fit in the pinion gear and thrust block, some slack end flow is require, but factory spec is use the 35thou washers, still trouble lie in the shims to preload the new bearings, not always feel right specially the old box- plus 40 years old!!
I have finally been able to get back onto the S, and when I took off the drivers side -sideplate, on the diff, I could turn the drive quite easily. So obviously it is binding on the bearing.
Could I file some metal off the side cover to stop this, or just add another gasket and torque it up ???
There should be shims on one side or the other which adjust the bearing pre-load. If they are not under the cover you took off, try the other one. Sounds like you need less shimming, but there is a procedure for doing this.
“I have finally been able to get back onto the S, and when I took off the drivers side -sideplate, on the diff, I could turn the drive quite easily. So obviously it is binding on the bearing.
CheersÃ‚Â Ã‚Â Colin
The Service manual has a procedure for doing this. You'll need to locate some of the shims from Minispares say. Also, there are different preloads for the bearings – look for the word thrust on the bearings. If it's there the preload is higher than for non-thrust bearings. If you can, get the proper thrust bearings also. They are available but are expensive. Cheers, Keith
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