Mini Cooper Register
The first thing i would do is apply for a heritage certificate,it will have build date,date of dispatch andtrim colour.
i have already got one i should of said it does its blank where it says trim.
just has the chassi number, engine number, body number, reg, build date. the normal things very basic when it comes to anything else
thanks for the idea.
Hello and well done on getting hold of a Mk1! Andrew is our resident Fiesta Yellow Mini expert and no doubt will add his thoughts later but in my experience all Minis this colour had powder blue interior trim. Sometimes this was plain and sometimes mixed with 'brocade' on the Mini Super models or 'fleck' on the deluxe. We had a 1962 Mini Deluxe in that colour in the 1960s and the interior was powder blue/grey fleck with powder blue carpet. It's a great combination – very light and airy!
Best of luck with the project. Many of us have half-finished cars which may (or may not) be finished for next year!…..
I'm suprised the Heritage Certificate showed so little detail.
Guess I'd better post then Richard 😀
As your car is a 62, unless it is a Super (not to be confused with a Super Deluxe) then it will have a plain Powder Blue interior etc. The Super models had Powder Blue/Grey Gold or Silver Brocade interiors ala Cooper/S models.
If it is a basic model it will have the same plain seats but would have had black/dark grey rubber floor coverings instead of carpet and non opening rear 1/4 lights, plain bumpers without overriders and corner bars and asingle speedo without oil pressure and temperature gauges amongst other differences.
When was your car built? I have a V5 (not for sale) for a Fiesta Yellow car built in October 1962, one of the first Super Deluxe cars. I also have myFiesta Yellow/OEW Cooper S replica as everyone here knows 😀
Its a very rarecolourandlike Marmite, you either love it or hate it 😎
Are you able to post any pics of it ?
Good luck with the rebuild.
sorry 'need some info on mk1's' my e button is paying up
hello. i have been in the mini seen for about 6 years now and know a fair bit about them.i have got through the first stage of wanting big wheels and exhaust, lost the interest of thatyears ago, had may minisand now i have just got myself a 1962 mk1
i am looking for any info people can possible give,
its a 1962 , 850cc, fiesta yellow.
its in very good conditoin for the year and been garaged for over 25 years, still has the orignal floors and number tag, it will need a new front end and boot floor , valance but on the whole it soild but look a bit sorry for its self.
i am going through the stages of trying to get the logbook back as it was not put on the dvla computers back in 1984. but i have been told that i need to restore it back to how it was first.
so i need info on, the colour of the seats, carpets, maybe head casting numbers, any sites that could be handy,etc ect ect ect
i am on a dead line as i want it ready for IMM in birmingham in 2009 the 50th birthday of mini, it would great to drive it there but i have alot of work a head
thanks for any help
cool looks like a have to rebuild the drums then , i double check when i see the seats if they are not right they are not going in, i keep posting pictures as it goes along
I would try to keep the front end as it doesn't look too bad, just do the wings, as to reproduce the front panel is another wholestory if you look at back posts.
I must say I agree with all that. It looks as good a Mk1 shell as you are likely to find now:). A good find. I also agree that you should keep the front panel if possible – see other threads regarding THAT thorny subject! Wasn'tthis caron ebay a little while ago? Possibly twice?
Also do not throw [b][u]anything[/u][/b] away no matter how trivial or old it may seem, door rubbers are a good example if they are still there (not on the one photo)
yes i did get it off ebay back in november it was in london, so you think i should keep the front panel but change the wings????? i have to see when i take the wings off how bad it is
the floors are solid and the ones from the factory, so i am happy
i will be using all heritage panels and keeping photos of every stage and recepts, not sure if i have all the orignal rubbers but they may be in the boxes
with the seats , talked to my mate again and with the surf blue car he is turning it into a cooper so the seat have to go so they will be right for my car. which is lucky plus he as a garage full of mk1 bits so we are going to do a bit of a deal
do they still need make the rubber floor mats 'newton' maybe
i am going to beaulieu on the 8 june hope Andrew1967will be there i want to see your car and have a chat.
Heritage front panels are way different including subframe mounts, so even if there is a fair bit of rust get it repaired they tend to only really go on the mounts to the flitch panels and the seams to the wings, these are fairly easy to repair even if it means removing it from the car to do to make it easier.
ok will do i post some pictures when i get there
[b]dean wrote: [/b] ”
do they still need make the rubber floor mats 'newton' maybe
i am going to beaulieu on the 8 june hope Andrew1967will be there i want to see your car and have a chat.
Rubber mats are not available as repro items and are very difficult to come by. Keep a careful eye out and grab 'em if any turn up.
That front panel definately looks saveable Dean. Try to save it if you can. If you can't the best option is to get a Mini-Machine (M-Machine if BMW are watching :X) converted front panel for a full skirt Mk1. Heritage front panels are not correct.
Sounds like you could have struck lucky with the interior.
Yes, I will be going to Beaulieu with my yellow perilS replica. It will be on the Norfolk Region stand. Look forward to meeting youfor a chat.
cool. well i will be on the eastbourne and district mini club stand, i will be camping up there the night before so i will be there early.
looking forward to having a chat.
Looks like we will all be there, just watch out for Norton in those brocade pants!!:shock:
To add to that;
Until September 1962 there were three 850 Minis.
Basic – non opening rear side windows, rubber floor covering, no over riders, single speedo (silver face) and no vinyl on the transverse switch panel/dash rail. Possibly no heater either although most had them fitted as an extra. Body colour fuel cap.
Deluxe was as above but with over riders with corner bars, opening rear side windows, 'carpets' 😀 , heater, chrome trim around the switch panel, crome trim in the front and rear screen rubbers, stainless steel trim around the arches (should be three sections per side), full wheel trims with half moon cut outs. Stainless fuel cap.
Super: As above but with vertical add on bars on the grille, vinyl trim on both the switch panel rail and the top (ashtray) rail and up the screen pillars, smooth lid ashtray, key starter (no floor button), chromed gearlever and possibly handbrake as well, two tone Cooper seat trim, external chrome trim around the door windows (look for rivets/holes if they are missing), carpeted boot floor board with locating brackets on the rear bulkhead and the back of the boot floor, three black face instruments (speedo, oil pressure and water temp), chrome interior door handles. Contasting roof colour, Old English White in your case.
After September 1962 the Deluxe and Super were dropped, and replaced by a Super Deluxe. These have:
Standard chrome Deluxe grille
Vinyl on the lower switch panel rail only – painted top rail and pillars.
Three black face instruments as per Mini Super
Floor button starter
Door pull strings
Opening rear side windows
Chrome trim in screen rubbers f&r
Single colour trim (Powder blue in your case)
Black painted gear lever and handbrake
Super Deluxes do not have the chrome trim around the door windows, the carpeted boot floor board, chromed gearlever and handbrake etc. What they DO have is the first baulk ring syncro gearbox as opposed to the earlier cone syncro box.
Being a 1962 car, you could have one of four varieties. Post up a pic!
Yes, some pictres would be great!
Just to correct a couple of small details above: We owned an early 1962 Fiesta Yellow 'Deluxe' in the 1960s as a fairly new car. The Deluxe had overiders but NOT corner bars, had bright plastic NOT stainless wheelarch trim (both these were reserved for the Super). It DID however have two tone seat trim – powder blue and grey fleck (as opposed to the brocade of the Cooper/Super models). The carpets were also Powder Blue and of the same good quality as the Super model!
wow thanks for all your comments and help, not seen many fiesta yellow mark 1's around,
it was built in 16th may 1962 despatched on 17th may 1962
as you can see its been painted orange but you car still see the oringnal paint in the boot, floors, engine bay, and were the screen was,
may have got hold of some seats, a mate is getting hold of a surf blue mark one and it has the wrong colour seats and carpet. he said they are good and blue so i have to wait and see. , i have set 7.5 'S' brakes which i would like to put on for safety reason but do you think it is wise or should i stick to the drum!!!!!!!!
here are some pictures, as i said it looks abit sorry for its self and it needs a new front end.
boot fit really well with a good gap all round
not sure if its the orignal sppedo it was inbox in the back but the orignal engine is still in the car
i have managed to source most of the other engine bits
most of the parts are in the back in boxes
the roof gutters are like new no rust , think and in very good nuck for the year shame about the dents on the roof,
orignal wiper moter with 62 stamped on it
Looks like you've got a nice little project there. The floors look very good.
It's a very rare basic model. Non opening rear 1/4 lights and black screen filler inserts. The speedo is incorrect. It should be a silver faced one with a plastic needle with a red tip.
Surf Blue cars have the same interior as Fiesta Yellow cars so IF it's the wrong one for the Surf Blue car, it could well bewrong for yours.
S brakes will improve the braking but you really need a servo as well to feel the full benefit. The single leading shoe front drum brakes take a little getting used to but I find them adequate on my '60 850.You just have to plan your braking a little earlier:)
I have always wanted to go to Buulee, and even more so now that i 'know' a few of you blokes:)
Next year should be a 'bumper year' James. An extra effort will be made for the Minis 50th birthday:D. I know of a few owners, myself included, who hope to get long-term restoration projects completed in time. If you do make it some time you'll be assured a good welcome.
[font=arial][font=verdana]Looks a great project Dean, well done[/font].:)[/font]
[font=verdana]As previously stated the basics are [u]really[/u] rare.[/font]
Does anyone know when the basics seats changed from cloth to vinyl? I thought that Deluxemk1's with fleck went along side basic cloth. Was is late 61 or 62 that they changed?
thats good did not think my car was that rare just thought it was a normal mark 1 .
i take it that the gearbox is 3 syncro as its an early car. how easy is it not to get parts for the engine to rebuild them, as i would not think its common to rebuild a 850cc. i know 998-1275 parts are easy as i have a 1293 freshy rebuild in the shed which i was going to put in till i found out how rare it was.
how well do the 850 go i know they are slow and to not pick up fast but are they ok to do 60-70 on a motorway as i want to take it to birmingham next year. i was thinking of doing slight tweeks to the 850 to make it a slight bit quicker, like very slightly porting it as it will not be noticed like a up rated cam,
engine wise, i have to check it once i get it apart .the head is off and looks like it has been for sometime so it mayneed a rebore but i check to see if i can get away with a honing, i will rebuild be box as if that goes it will be back to square one , engine out slpit the whole lot,
do you know the paint code for the 'fiesta yellow' or the same colour but under a differnt name if it has changed.
i have learn so much since posting on here, thanks for all your help, brilliant!!!!!!!
You can make 850s go really well. Ive had the block of mine bored / pocketed, an sw5 cam and a ported / gas flowed head. Still on 3 synchro box, and looks completely standard from the outside!
Or you could go down the 60s tuning route, Speedwell, Downton etc…
Yes 3 syncro box, 850's are ok on their own but really run out of puff at about 50-55. As they run a 3.77 FD you could combine the tuning work with a 3.44 FD. It would make the motorways easier and as with the cam and head work it's invisible. 😀
Parts aren't too had to find.
Somerford do a good selection as do Mini Mail and for secondhand parts Min-e-Bitz. Minispares do a surprising amount for the 850's.
Just about the best place to ask about early cars is [color=#008000][url=http://www.specialistminiforums.com]http://www.[b]specialist[/b][b]mini[/b][b]forums[/b].com[/url] [color=black]and go to the early forum.[/color] [/color]
850 engine parts are pretty easy to come by so it wouldn't be a problem to rebuild it. Gearbox parts are getting more difficult but the usual parts required are out there. However, you might have a cone type synchro box. These are almost impossible to get parts for and you'd be much better off finding a later A or B type gearbox. There's a useful thread on gearboxes on the Mk1 section giving details of box numbers etc etc.
850's are slow compared to bigger engined cars. My own 850 is happy cruising at 60 mph andwould go to 70 but is not that happy to be honest. I always think that my 850 is thinking 'we'll get there when I want to' whereas my 998 Cooper or my S say 'come on, lets have some more' :D.
Engine modifications are possible – there's an originalSpeedwell 850 performance kit oneBay at the moment :cool:It's also possible to add asupercharger :dude:However, an engine upgrade is probably cheaper and more practical. Depends on what you want.
Fiesta Yellow paint code is YL11 if my memory serves me right.
I have various sets of NOS 850 pistons that might be available if you decide to rebuild the engine and rebore it.
“Or you could go down the 60s tuning route, Speedwell, Downton etc…”
Daniel Richmond's 59 is a basic 🙂
Dean, The original BMC paint code was YL 11. ICI paint code is P420-3484. I had some mixed not long ago for a job. Not all paint suppliers will have a formulation but some still do. I think it is quite attractive and certainly unusual. My daughter still wants me to respray mine that colour!
I depends what you want from an engine but the old 850 was very smooth running if not terribly powerful. The top speed was only just over 70mph so cruising at that speed is a bit of a strain, but 60 – 65mph should befine and a few internal mods could make all the difference. My last 850 performed perfectly well on the few longer journeysthat I undertook The early gearboxes were a bit weak however.
[b]minorparts wrote: [/b] “My daughter still wants me to respray mine that colour!
Go on, Richard, you know it makes sense 😛
[b]bill773mini wrote: [/b] “….and for secondhand parts Min-e-Bitz.
Nick posts as radfordman and can be contacted at [url=mailto:email@example.com]nick(at)min-e-bitz.co.uk[/url].
[b]Andrew1967 wrote: [/b] “[b][/b] ”
” No, I like to stand out a bit and I think that Fiesta Yellow is now getting a bit common:D:D:D
[b]minorparts wrote: [/b] “[b]Andrew1967 wrote: [/b] “[b][/b] ”
” No, I like to stand out a bit and I think that Fiesta Yellow is now getting a bit common:D:D:D”
Can't argue on that point – perhaps FY is having it's day, albeit 46 years late :shock:.
If you want to stand out how about a doing itlike the Pants Mini….Jaffa orange:P
ok so if you pocked it you must of been using a 1275 head, i will not be able to do that as it have to look orignal, but a rebore and a sw5 cam sound good, and a ported head.
i have another 3 syncro gearbox striaght cut with drops all rebuilt less diff but i have a 4 pin diff in my other gearbox on my 1293 engine,thinkthe box isa'S' box just have to bolt the magic wand diff housingon the back, but i will lose the s/c drops as they will make to much noise for the road.aslo i think i put a 3.44 diff on
also i have a set of rebuilt twin hs2 but is that going a bit to far away from looking and keeping it orignal, but to get the logbook back i was told thati could have period modifcations.
i have seen the tuning kit on ebay but its going upand upand will go for much more, so my first wallet opener will be the panels / welding and respray,
[b]dean wrote: [/b] “thinkthe box isa'S' box just have to bolt the magic wand diff housingon the back”
It might not be quite as easy as that as the housing/main casingare matched and wouldneed to be line bored to ensure the diff runs true.
ok hoping i have not got a cone gearbox then i could rebuild the sc gears into the orignal case.
going to have a chat to ac dodd about the best set up for the 850cc and see how much it comes out to.budget will be a little tight but i also want it running for birmingham next year
By checking out the casing number on the front of the gearbox and then referring to the attached thread you'll be able tell if you have a cone box or not.
Chances are you haven't as they did not last very long and were replaced with baulk ring boxes.
Regarding your painted door cards, have a look at this earlier post about restoring paintedbrocade trim. regards Bob
very interesting i my have to try it on the door cards and pockets thanks
just found out that i have a 22A363 gearbox number which is aCone synchro magic wand rubber joint. so that can not be used as the parts are hard to find or not around anymore. so i have a 22A1288 3-synchro B-type but it has a remote diff housing when it says it should be magic wand, but reading at the bottom of the first post on gearbox numbers it might be elf, hornet???
also just found out that its a morris mini minornot an austin mini.
and that the door cards in the car at the moment are black but that is only because someone has painted them , but on the back you can still see the powder blue
also my mate has been digging in this bits and found me 2 speedos, morris grill lots of 1 1/4 carbs, bonnet, seats maybe coming in the next mouth or too, front screen,and other odd little bits.alsoknows ofa good condition 850 with ported polished head lighterned forged piston really cheap painted ready to go in, and lucky that we swap parts for parts so its not going to cost anything.
he is also going to be at beauliue with a van full of parts mostly early cars and 'S' bits
[b]dean wrote: [/b] ”
as to the reg, it was not put on the dvla computers back in 1984 when they computerised everything so its been off the road fora long time.
that why the prevous over sold it on ebay, he was going to do it up for his son as and investment as he was told the plate is worth Ã‚Â£5500 ( but its not). for when he was going to go to uni he would sell the plate to help pay for it . untill he had to do some work in gettingthe reg back, like getting in authenicated by a club, plus it would be non transferable so he had no us for it and sold it on ebay and i won it, he not a true mini owner.
Ah yes, I remember seeing that auction now 😀
I would restore it as an 850, but do a few mods. For a start you need some decent brakes as the early single leading shoe drums are just crap. You'll pick up a set of later (post 9/64) front drum assys for peanuts, rebuild with new cylinders and shoes and add a servo. When they're in good fettle, twin leading shoe brakes are pretty good.
For the engine, I'd get hold of a later engine from a seventies 850. Keep it stock but add a 270 cam, an 1100 head and a single 1.5 inch SU from a Mini 1000. If you can find one, a 12G295 head would give really good results – you should see 45-50 bhp which is a lot more than the 32 a stock 850 puts out. The 850 blocks don't have cam bearings on 2/3 but it's not a problem with something as tame as a 270. A compression ratio of 10:1 would be good but you'll need to run it on 98 Super. A standard pea shooter exhaust will be alright for 50 bhp. The cone syncro box wants stripping and the casing weighed in for scrap, they're ghastly bloody things.
Using a later engine means you have the thick tail crank and the diphragm spring clutch which is a a lot better than the coil spring unit you have. Use a later 3 syncro box with B type gears (65 to 68) for which parts are still available. With the above engine mods you can run a 3.44 diff as well. Consider ditching the horrid rubber cross driveshaft couplings and using a later post 1973 diff with the pot joints. A nice mod you won't be able to see but they give better driveline refinement. I converted an Austin 1100 to these and it made a big difference.
With these mods you'll have an 850 that looks and sounds (important that!) like a Mark 1 Mini but drives better with much better performance and economy. 80 mph on the motorway will be a nice smooth 5000 rpm.
JJM888 isn't on the DVLA computer so it's been off the road a very long time. I rescued a one owner 1963 Austin last year that was last taxed in 1977 and the details came up on the website after 30 years! JJM came from Kendal/Lake District area btw.
I just noticed, the brackets for the heater blower unit are still on the inner wing!:D
I'm inclined to agree about the brakes. The twin leading shoe drums were a big improvement and a perfectly adequate system. When I changed from an 850 with them to a 998 Cooper there was very little real improvement in braking(:shock:). An 850 engine is certainly capable of being tuned if you don't want a larger capacity unit.
I think from memory, the car was re-listed on ebay because ofa problem with the registration number.
thanks for your post, i want to keep it looking standard but with a few unseen tweeksso i not sure if its best to put a servo in as it orignal did not have one, and if i do i put my 7.5 cooper s brakes on.but if i dont, i hunt out some of the drum brakes you mentioned.i was given a spare set of drum brakes so i also check them out as well
with the engine i will be doing something to, not sure if i use the orignal as i may have sorted a modified 850. not sure on how modified it isbut i know its got a ported and polished head, camed up but i am not sure which one, lighterned flywheel. . i will run that on twin 1' 1/4.
i am also told that the engine kicks out just over 50bhp, but that will have be seen as i have only been told this and have no proof of the above.
i will be running a 3.44 diff ratio,and ialso have a 3 sync s/c box so i may use that.
are the 1100 head much different in size and looking to the 850, as i know the 1275 head is ,due to the temp hosing position being different and size to the 998.
as to the reg, it was not put on the dvla computers back in 1984 when they computerised everything so its been off the road fora long time.
any ideaabout heads on my prevous post thanks
Forget twin 1.25 SU's, you won't get anything from them that a single 1.5 inch SU can give for a lot less hassle and expense. Yoy can mount the brake servo inside the car under the dash like the works cars did but to be honest, adding a servo won't really affect it's value. A modded 850 is a lot better than a standard one but it needs to be done in the way it was done when the car was new. You won't need S discs for an 850! Save your money and use later Mini 850/1000/Clubman drums, they will be just the job.
That's a very nice project. If you want to know how to modify it in the proper old fashioned way, go and buy Dave Vizards 'How to modify your Mini' which was writted in 1976/7 and hasn't yet been updated.:)
ok i stick to a 1.5 but orignally had 1.25. i dont need to spend out for cooper s discs as i have them and new seals and pistons. but drums will be going on but no servo unless i really need one.
i have that book will have to dig it out and look through it again
slowly getting sorted, i got a nice big parcel from mini spares, 2 new heritage mk1 wings.
Nice one Dean 🙂
I had to take one of my heritage front wings back to MS as the ring spotwelded to take the headlamp was offset leaving a small gap:shock:
got the mk 1 out to day and found i few more panels that will be needed, nothing major they could be patched up with some odd steal but i am doing it properly so i get some panels which will fit.
oh i also found that the drives door still has the door rubber in it which gary was talking about, did not know if it had one still on there as the mini has be parked up with that door aganist the wall
also found out that the spare drums brakeswhich i had in the boot are twin leading so they will come in handy. but do you think its best to keep the orignals once i have changed to the twin leading brakesas they are from the car.
Heres a couple of pics of my modded 850. 16,000 from new 🙂
Its great fun, no where near as fast as an S but speed isn't everything as my wife keeps telling me 🙂 I have always kep't it very 'original looking' but have tried out all sorts of stuff on it over the years, it even had amals for a while.
Mine is still on single leading show breaks, they are indeed pretty terrible, but having them gives you that arse twitching thrill you get in an S at about 85 mph, butat about 55 when you wonder if they are going to slow you down enough to get round the next corner 🙂
nice mark 1 take it, thats its a Basic model like mine, nice to see some close up photos i will be going back to these when i finish mine off
What fun and looks great! A good 850 is a lovely smooth engine and because of its relatively low speed and fantastic cornering ability you seldom need the brakes anyway……unless some fool in front in something modern with ABS decides to stop quickly because he's not been reading the road:shock:……
It isn't speed itself that gives the thrill is it – just the sensation of speed, and thats why such small noisy, low built cars are such fun:D!
As the late, great James Hunt said, his Austin A35 Van on crossply tyresprovided many more thrills than any Ferrari……..and all at legal speeds:)!
That's a great looking Mk1, Mk1.
And an early one too judging by the seats and door kick plate,
love the chronometric tach, very UHR850:)
My 850 was my first car, and i still have it, lots of cars have come and gone, but i will always have No1, i have done 40k miles in it, i used it as a student as my only car, then it became a hardly ever used 3rd car, but now i'm back to using it every day for the work commute and loving it, rain hail or shine:cool:
hello, well i have looked over the car more and found out what need to replaced and welding up and just ordered the rest of the panels from mini machine, so soon it will be out with the welder and grinder.then off to paint.
been thinking, i asked ac dood who is part of ml motorsport about building a tuned 850. he said get a modded 12g295 or a 12g202 head and a sw5-07 cam kit and it sould produce around 52hp 54-56lbft of torque. including all the other rebuild parts pistons ,bearing etc
but a friend has cooper 998 engine mk1 or 2 for sale, do i use that as you can not really tell the difference between them except the engine plate ( which can be removed or changed)and very slight markings, but i will also keep the orignal engine,
the reason for this is that i will be going to most shows traveling a quitefew miles to get there, we all travel as a club and do 70 odd on the motorways so i need to keep up i am not a keen lover of the 3 sync box and would prefer a 4 sync box, i just need it to look orignal to be able to claim the v5c back, its a remote hosing which i can bolt the magic wand on to .
its just the engine i am worried about, i am fine with rebuilding them as well as gearboxes but i dont want to spend a pretty penny then find out that i wished once its all togeather that i has a 4 sync box or somthing like that. the rest of the car will be as it should bebut it just this.?????
andrew yours is a standard car but made to look like an 'S' and it look good .its a fine line i dont want to cross it and ruin the car
any comments please
I'd have thought a 998 engine, whether a Cooper or std, would be a better base to start than an 850. A 998 Cooper engine is really only a std 998 with different pistons, camshaft and head.
It depends what [u]you [/u]want as far as your car is concerned. A basic 850 is rare nowadays there is no doubt. I was not too concerned about doing what I did as I already have a very nice 1960 850 Deluxe, rebuilt to near original specification. A real S is out of my price range so I was happy doing what I did for a fraction of the cost of the real deal.
Dean if you're thinking of cutting a hole in the floor of your carfor a remote gearchange (a la 998 Cooper) why not go the whole hog and just chuck a standard 1300GT straight in, 4 synch, long legs, 70 bhp straight away , available at reasonable dosh and you won't have to rev thewotsits off it toas you would an 850/998 ! 😎
Its a 1961 deluxe.
Don't really use it that much, but it does about 1,000 miles a year or so. Mainly thrashing around the back roads where I live to & from the pub & the odd show.
Not blindingly fast but fast enough.
“Its a 1961 deluxe.
Don't really use it that much, but it does about 1,000 miles a year or so.Ã‚Â Mainly thrashing around the back roads where I live to & from the pub & the odd show.
A superb Mini is that. I could have driven it all day!
i will put the magic wand diff housing on the back of the cooper gearbox so it looks right, its no problem as i want strip and and check everything any way plus rebuild the box as i dont want to have that breaking or going wrong other wise i will be back to square 1
i want a bit more up and go but original looks, i know you cant have everything.something has to give it always does. and that will just be and engine number and gearbox case number will be different to the eye, but i bet that it was a common thing to do back in the 60's. i was told that i am allowed period mods when claming back my v5c but i think this is pushing it.
i will go for the 998 cooper engine but keep the original 850 engine and proberly restore it ready for in the future when i put it back in again. i will be keeping this car and its not a short time thing. like most cars there is always something you are looking for,
also just got a load of scaffolding tubes and clamps to make a mini spit so i can spin the car around while restore it and it was FREE!!!!!
fingers crossed the panels will be here by the weekend as i am off work all next week,
Hi Dean, the diff casings are not interchangable as they are line bored as a matched pair, if ignored, I think you will find it puts stress on the diff (or something like that I remember) Gray
oh damn, there goes my plans butthey do do cover plates where the remote hole is i think i have seen them so if i ever wanted to go back to the magic want i could but do i want to cut a hole in the tunnel????????
just an idea as someone told me but i dont think you can put 4 sync gear set in to a gearbox which has a 3 sync gears, i think the internal sizes are different, are they????????
there was a 1300gt engine on ebay, quite near to me but they wanted Ã‚Â£500 for it which would be worth it if a wanted my car to look like a 'S' plus i would have to change the brakes but i need to keep them as drums and cars of the year of my car did not have 'S' engines as they did not come out till a few years later,
what to do what to do, i think i will go for the 998, its complete was running and i know it was, i drove it when it was in the car, its from a good friend so i can get it cheap and swap parts for it. plus i could have the car on the road quicker as i would not have to do a whole engine rebuild.
'A superb Mini is that. I could have driven it all day!'
Thanks , but the truth is you couldn't 🙂 Cos it was a couple of times around the block & off to the pub 🙂
I'll send you some pics of my Sprint when its done. It's the re-encarnation of my almond green 1071 if you remember that one 😉
well my panles from mini machine have not arrived but hope they will be here on monday.
today i made you self a new tool, it cost me nothing, a friend works for a scoffolding company and he managed to get all the part to make it, quite simple, bit of welding, well a lot i do not want it to break, i think i went a bit over the top, but better safe than sorry,
the centre of the pole is a meter at its heighest and can be lowered if needed, easy to put up and dismantal, just got to sort out the mounting points through the speedo and back seat hole. going to make working on the shell much easier. hope to have it on there this week.
Here's a picture of said items 🙂
thanks very much going down the nearest metal workers tomorrow to get some sheet steal. thanks again
I see the 2 cats look keen to lend a hand, or a paw.
[b]ka2s4 wrote: [/b] “I see the 2 cats look keen to lend a hand, or a paw.
I think they are waiting for the pig to turn up for the hog roast, or maybe next doors dog.:D
Nice one Dean, looks like it will do the job.
I can photograph the attachments for the speedo and rear seat apertures if you want so you can fabricate something similar.
if you could it would be handy so i know the best way to to mount it, the cats are always around when i am working, they dont get it the way but always near.
i think it would be the dogs in our garden that would be the one to get the hog!!!!!!
” going down to get some sheet steal.”
Don't let them catch you 😀
i try not let the know that swapped the e for an a and some metal to make the jig
hello well a very nice bloke dropped of a big box on wednesday from mini machine so i now have all my panel, i hope, got a new gas bottle for the welder,
also been down to the metal works to pick up the steel to make the jig to bolt the bar through the mini, ( see photos above) so just got to make up a few templates of the size of the speedo hole then cut it out the metal and start welding all the bit together.
slowly getting there going to make a few phone calls about paint themini. there are few good sprayers around with in 25 miles so i wil have to check out some of the work.
not much happened, still need to get rid of the other mini before i can work on the mk1, i have all my panels now,
also i picked i a freshly machined 12g295 head by vmaxat a show today off a bloke.
its got larger inlet valve polished and ported very nice, skimmed flat, double valve springs. unleaded seats, never been on a car since done all for Ã‚Â£120 bargain for the money.
hello its been some time not much has changed on the car but i have been collecting parts
i now have all my panels 90% heritage panel, inner, outer A panels, wings, rear valance , door skinsetc
also got hold of a complete set of powder blue trim from a 63 fiesta yellow mini, and it is in mint condition, given everything a good clean and its come up like new, there is one small graze about 25mm long and 2 mm wide on the back of onethe front seats, and odd stants on the door cards but those parts are not seen, not bad for 45 year old trim
really happy and it was all for Ã‚Â£250, much less than newton and its all original
but it means that there is 1 less fiesta yellow mini on the road
also i have got myself a complete 850 engine from a mk1 and a complete 998 engine from a 64wolseley, riley, which runs, and the nice thing is that they have the same block as coopers so i have the choice of putting the original 850 back or build i nice 998 which looks the same,
at the same time i picked up a very good bonnet at southern mini day, no rust or rot, dents or twists, and fits well as well,
still got the other mini to shift but that will be going soon, then out comes the grinder and welder,
That sounds great Dean! A good original interior is a real bonus. Glad to hear that progress is still being made. We all know that it is slow – it is the same for most of us:?.
A good 998 unit will be a good compromise, will give useful extra performance and the 850 can be refitted another day if required. Good luck with it!
thanks ,body work is not my best thing ilike, as i like to get thing done properly and have everything well protected from any forms of rust, and making sure everything lines up right, and i dont feel i have good enough metal work skills to do this but i will give it ago, it would be difference if it was wood.
i like doing the engine and gearbox rebuilds, so i may start that soon , as i can really make sure everything is just right, my 1293 engine i have has been striped down from a short block 3 times as there was some thing i was not happy with, as i want to get everything perfect
the worst thing is doing it and having to do it all over again
great to get it done for IMM in birmigham in august 09, but it will be a big push, its just the body and paint which is the main worry everything else i am happy with and enjoy spending hours doing it
I am just going through that stage myself (my shell is now painted). There are various threads on this forum relating to Mini bodywork. I would just say take plenty of photos and/or notes. Never throw anything away. Lots of trial fitting before you finally carry out anypermanent welding.
The doors and A panels will probably be the trickiest to get right but keep at it ( make sure the door hinges haven't go too much wear in them) and break thework down into manageable sized areas if you can, rather than regard the whole restoration as one huge job. Don't leave any repairsin bare metal – clean it up and brush a coat of primer on rather than leave it even a day or two.
There are plenty of knowledgeable folk on here to provide help & encouragement:).
right finally got started on the shell, now the other shell in front of it has gone,
in the last 2 days after work, i got the engine out and dropped the front and rear subframes so now its just a shell
and the most lucky thing is not a single bolt, nuthas snapped, sheered, cossed threated, yet but there is still more to undo, but there will be a few soon,
finger crossed i have it up on the spit on the weekend
while i have not been working on the car i have been collecting a few parts, i now have a mk2 cooper engine being rebuilt,its down the machine show now having work that i cant do,
complete set of mint trim,
and all my panels that i can see i will need,
i get some photos this weekend once i have made some progress
and also just found this on ebay, the gearbox i have been looking for , for ages,
but a good 4 hour drive from where i am on the south coast, think i make a weekend of it when i go up there, if i win
Good to hear that you have made a start on the car and hope you win that engine/box.
There was a NOS early 850 box on fleabay the other day, can't find it now. It was under BMC
i saw that it was in wales but it was 3 sync,
been in contact with the bloke with that engine and it is a 22g1288 box, 4 sync, with the wand convertion on a remote box just what i am after but its 186.5 milesaway from me,
Sod's law will come into play here Dean. 😕
If you buy it, another will turn up next week just around the corner but if you don't buy it then you'll wait months and months!!
yeap, know what you mean,
always happens , like you get rid of something then some one want it,
i need it and been after one for ages,
bet there is will be some one reading this who is also wanting it, sods laws at it best
let you know sunday
well, i one the engine and gearbox for Ã‚Â£77.07, may be a bit high as i am only going to use the gearbox and will rebuild it,but i need it and they dont come up often,
just got a 4 hour up there and a 4 hour drive back, oh joy!!!!!!!
but like andrew said, sods law will come into play.
and i bet some one will come up local at a cheaper price.
Strip the gearbox off and put the engine back on fleabay. Might get a few Ã‚Â£Ã‚Â£ back 😉
right going up to get the engine on the 14th feb if all goes well, and like minimainiac said, strip the gearbox off and get the engine back on ebay asap.
also got home from work today and started to strip off the front panel and wings, took the front panel off very carfully as i have been told to repair not to replace it,
now looking at it i might do the the inner wings as well as they look a bit worst for wear in places, more expense,
a question??? what are the differents in a original front panels off my car and one from m-machine or heritage, someone said it once before but i cant remember the different points and is it really noticable.
Are you going to paint it back to the original Fiesta Yellow?
Would be good to have another FY car on the road 😉
yes i got to put it back to the original conditon to claim back the v5c as its been off the road for a long time,
it would be a mistake and a shame not to paint it fiesta yellow, i am getting to like it, as it quite rare and it a nice 60's colour
Have you seen Fiesta Yellow in the flesh yet? It looks totally different in photo's.
Those bottom corners are not too bad to patch, what may be a bit more trouble when you delve that far is where the inner a panel attaches. Years of road dirt built up sitting holding the damp can be problematic.
[b]minimainiac wrote: [/b] “Have you seen Fiesta Yellow in the flesh yet? It looks totally different in photo's.”
Yes, it looks soooo much better in the metal :dude:
Well done on the gearbox Dean. 14th Feb collection……… apresent for yourother halfthen 😛
From what I can see in the picture, I'd repair those inner wings. The area's you need are easy enough to fabricate and weld in.
Dean, from what I can see, your inner wings look quite repairable? I wouldn't rush to replace them.
I bought a new 'correct Mk1' Heritage front panel for my 1966 car and was very disappointed with it. The landing panel was pure Rover Mini, with many detail differences, the grille areawas incorrect and had the extra side air intake, the number plate mountings were the large late type ones and, worst of all, the indicator light mountings were alsofor the larger late Rover type lights. The lower valance has the brake cooling cut outs – correct for my car but not for your earlier example.
Many early minis have theincorrect front panel any many owners say they are not bothered by this – it depends on what you want. Personally I want the panelwork to be as close as possible to the original so had a lot of work to do. I understand that the M Machine panel isa better job.
It depends how bad your original panel is but I would try to repair it if possible.
Best of luck.
Above picture shows the Heritage panel after several hours of modification to correct the inaccuracies. Here's another:
The landing panel and light mountings were cut from the original panel and grafted into the new one. My original panel was rot-free but accident damage had squashed the R/H subframe mount area which was proving very difficult to repair. Heritage said they had remade the correct front panel and this seemed thebest option:?…
The bumper mounting flange is very untidily spot welded too and the bumper doesn't actually line up very well:(.
yes i seen a fewin the flesh ,i saw andrews at beauliue and there was another cooper s in the show ring,i also popped over to swiftune and nick swift has a fiesta yellow 's' replica racer he is buliding for goodwood, and it looks so nice.
nice change to an old english white ,and you know that when you take it to a show there will not be many there.
on my front panel, there is bad rust where the wing joins the front panel above the headlight i will see if i can split them apart with out braking the panel, if not i am thinking of buy am-machine one, i like things to be perfect and get the best out of it, if i do it i want it to last and to be good, plus only doing it once, this is going to be a sunny day car , and not in the rain if i can help it
That's terrible!! I would have returned it and got the M-machine one, I bet theirs is much better.
Surely Heritage cannot refuse to take it back if it's not as it should be? Sounds like they sent you the wrong panel.
I couldn't easily return it because:
a) It had been a 'special order'.
b) because I'd have either had to stand the cost of postageor do a 3hour round trip, so it was easier to spend the time altering it:X. the Heritage factory is only ten minutes drive from me and I wentthere to discuss the panels I needed, but was told I could only purchase them through their agents in Birmingham or London – neither of whom had this item in stock!
It is the 'right' panel according to Heritage (as it has the early type subframe mounts). In rather the same way as Newton Comm. say it is 'right' to have brocade door straps…….'Right' basically seems to mean that it will fit rather than it is the correct part for the car:(.
With Heritage panels you should always read it as 'Questionable Heritage'
In the main, I was happy with my panels, particularly the Mk1 bootlid which, ataround Ã‚Â£100was a bargain compared with some secondhand ones I had seen. None of the panels were finished to modern original equipment standard really but will all be OK with a little fettling. For the record the panels I bought from Heritage were:
Front wings, front panel, A panels, R/H door, bootlid and rear lower valance. My car had suffered damage from various minor accidents in the hands of its previous elderly owner rather than rust, so floors, sills etc were all OK:). Accident damage brings its own problems with panel gaps/alignment but isarguably preferable to major rust.
thanks for you reply and photos,
i have noticed to can replace the front section of the inner wing, up to were the brace is, i may just buy them as the bottom corners were the front panel tab was spot welded and rusted away, also the top edge were the wing is welded on to if a bit rusty, i get my angle grinder with my wire wheel to see how much is just surface rust.
i have a look later and repost
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92 cooper interior
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