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Engine refurbishment (66 replies)

Graham Bichard
8 years ago
Graham Bichard 8 years ago

Not so much a tutorial, but a place where we can all learn together (especially me!) from those more experienced. You may be aware of the head gasket failure I

Graham Bichard
8 years ago
Graham Bichard 8 years ago

Engine pulled, pump primed, reassembled and put back in.
Ill finish putting it all back together tomorrow and hopefully get some oil pressure!

Graham Bichard
7 years ago
Graham Bichard 7 years ago

Engine back in, giving oil pressure - it runs, it idles nicely!!! 😀
But... if you go back to post #50, remember I had my doubts about the water pump sealing? I was proved right - it's p*****g out. Oh well - at least I don't need to pull the engine again.
So I've ordered a new pump and THREE gaskets from minispares (just in case I need to offer it up a couple of times :rolleyes:). It won't be fixed until week after next, but I'm really chuffed its back together and works. Can't wait to give it the beans though!

A few words on putting the engine in which may help someone else trying this:
[LIST]
[*]Split the master cylinder from the servo. Connect the master cylinder first then offer up the servo (there's just enough flex in the pipes to allow this to happen) and then refit the cylinder to the servo.
[*]Watch out for damaging the circlip on the diff outputs. I couldn't get the passenger side driveshaft to seat fully home. Lance at Green & White suggested taking the circlip off and offering up the drive shaft (which went straight on). I compared the old and a new circlip and there looked to be no difference, but fitting the new clip allowed the driveshaft to fit.
[*]Watch out for the throttle cable sheath pulling away from the bulkhead. This has happened to me and with the way its now routed its pulling tight was in place. I've managed to push it back towards the bulkhead and gained some slack, but I'll only know when its water tight and I start it again.
[/LIST] I'm sure there's a few other things - I'll update this when I've got more time. And of course, I'll let you all know how it drives and eventually let you all know how much power it produces!

Happy days

Graham Bichard
7 years ago
Graham Bichard 7 years ago

A quick update.
Post #62 above was written a little while ago. For some reason it didn't post - it was only when I've logged on this time that the 'restore' option appeared.
As it is, I bought a new water pump - here's the comparison:
[URL=http://s221.photobucket.com/user/Cooper1999/media/Northumberland-20140729-00224_zpscc67e7a6.jpg.html][IMG]http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd306/Cooper1999/Northumberland-20140729-00224_zpscc67e7a6.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
The good news is, this new pump has solved the problem! I even took the car out for a quick spin the other night - only a couple of miles, but it feels fit enough (only up to about 3000rpm).
There are a couple of minor things - more questions I'm afraid.
1. The speedo isn't working now. The cable is in two parts. I plan to check the connection, but if I need to check where the drive goes into the gearbox do I need to do this when the sump is drained? I can live without the speedo for now, but will need it for the MoT and for general driving.
2. Although the car ran okay, when dipping the clutch to turn around after the shirt run (and when coming up to a turn) the car died. Will the ECU adapt do we think? Or could there be an air leak or some such? (I did need to use silicon sealant where I'd broken the red bung on the inlet manifold).
3. The engine sounds very tappety. I set the tappets to 15thou (or the metric equivalent - only have metric feeler gauges) which is the gap in the Swiftune paperwork. I'm running 1.3 roller tip rockers and did wonder if this was the gap for 1.5 rockers. I've tried to call Swiftune this morning but there was no answer. I'm going to have to check the tappets again but should they be set to standard or 15 thou gap?
4. The clutch is biting quite low on the pedal. Is this normal for a new clutch? Will the biting point rise as the clutch wears, or do I need to adjust the clutch stop?
5. The wiring for the front spot lights isn't quite right. The left hand pair come on with main beam (i.e. the LH spot and the LH fog), and the right hand pair come on with the fog light switch. Again I can live with this, but it'll need to be sorted for the MoT, and may as well be done now (I hate electrics).
[URL=http://s221.photobucket.com/user/Cooper1999/media/IMG-20140802-00227_zpsef8ac38b.jpg.html][IMG]http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd306/Cooper1999/IMG-20140802-00227_zpsef8ac38b.jpg[/IMG][/URL].

Graham Bichard
7 years ago
Graham Bichard 7 years ago

Quick update on this.
I used the car for about 400 miles (speedo still not working!) and re-torqued the head nuts and reset the tappets last week followed by an oil change.
I kept the revs to 3000 for the first couple of hundred, with the odd burst to 3500, followed by 3500 with the odd excursion to 4000 for the next 200 miles.
The sump plug magnet did have a bit of swarf attached to it - we'll see how it looks at the next oil change.
I took a run up the A68 yesterday, camping overnight in Peebles before returning this morning.
Just before the climb out of Otterburn towards the border I took the engine up to 5k in second - it certainly feels strong enough. But the oil temperature almost immediately went up (it's been pretty much on the 85 degree mark during running in), so much so that I pulled in at the border viewing point to let it cool down (it reached the 120 mark).
After 15 minutes it was back down below the 85 mark, and stayed there for the rest of the journey. The funny thing is, it did exactly the same thing on the way back - out of Jedburgh, giving it a bit more stick and the temperature rises. Stopped in the same place (not quite 120 degrees this time) and had a cup of tea.
After setting off again, once south of Otterburn I started working the engine harder accelerating hard (to 6k rpm) in 2nd/3rd on the minor roads, out of the 90 degree turns.
Boy it feels strong! This could be down to the lower (2.9) FD, but the way it pulls past 4500rpm is definitely better (not that I drive much like this). But while the oil gauge went up (just above the 85 degree mark) I couldn't get it to the high temperatures experienced leading up to the border point. Strange.
I do have an oil leak though (I remember there used to be a scale of whether it was an oil drip/leak etc - this is definitely more than a drip). It appears to be from the flywheel end of the engine - I'll get it up on the ramps when the next change is due and have a better look, and keep a close eye on the oil level (and a drip tray under the car) in the meantime.
And I'll have to get the car on a rolling road to see exactly how much of this extra acceleration is down to power/gearing :D.

AMS
7 years ago
AMS 7 years ago

The higher oil temperature could be the friction of a new engine. Otherwise it's all looking good.

Graham Bichard
7 years ago
Graham Bichard 7 years ago

I hope you're right! I realise the engine should loosen up with miles - I'll keep an eye on the temp gauge and just have to stop if it occurs again. 15 mins was enough to get the temp back down.
And I think I've located the oil leak - the sensor in post #6 (oil pressure) is seeping when the engines running/oil is warm. I'll try and nip it up if I can get an adjustable in there (it's pretty tight and looks to be around 24mm-ish). If I need to I'll remove the grill and oil filter and try and get a socket in to it.
Looking at the photo (#6), there looks to be a brass washer on the sensor. I don't remember changing this when I put the block back together - that might be the problem. It might be worth trying to get a new washer anyway, for the next oil change.
But it did feel strong - I'm quite chuffed really!
Now - if I can only get the electrics sorted on the Marcos, I could crack on with the engine for that 😀

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