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Front Suspension Cones (4 replies)

H13JKR
9 years ago
H13JKR 9 years ago
H13JKR
9 years ago
H13JKR 9 years ago

The first step to fitting suspension cones is to make sure you have the correct specialist tools. Among the other usual tools you will need a Cone Compressor which is essential for the job in hand. (There are 2 types one for older cars and one for the newer cars. Ensure you have the correct one). Always ensure you use the genuine cones as a replacement. If you can wear them have a few pairs of disposable gloves to hand. These may save the skin on your hand from being black with old grease as well as layers being removed by various bits of your Mini.

Step 1 - The first step is to loosen the wheel nuts of the side you are going to work on then remove the sub frame tower bolt from the bulkhead. For this you will need a socket (34mm).

Step 2 - Step two involves using your cone compression tool. Now you screw the bars thread all the way down the sub frame tower bolt hole and as far into the Cone as possible. Wind up compressing the cone.

Step 3 - Now jack the car up in the air, also of course use axel stands to steady the car. Now the car is off the ground you can remove the wheel and see the Suspension Cone.

Step 4 - The next step is to remove the Upper Arm to allow you to access the Cone. Remove the shock absorber, and then undo and use a ball joint splitter to remove the hub/disc assembly from the upper arm. The upper arm then has a main bolt through the middle, through the sub frame. Remove the nuts from this either side. Once you have done this there is a small nut and bolt which you will need to undo (near the grease nipple), you will need to get 2 spanners as it is accessible one side and the other is behind the inner wing. To do this you may have to flex the Inner wing slightly to reach the necessary bolts but avoid bending it if you can. Your wrench will be useful here, along with ratchet spanners etc. You will lose skin here if you are not careful. There is then another nut, screwed into the sub frame itself deeper into the abyss which is the inner wing, this with the previous nut and bolt releases the thrust washer. You should now be able to push the threaded pin through the middle of the upper arm into the inner wing. Be careful as the brake pipe assembly attached to the front sub frame is in the same area behind the inner wing. You should then eventually be able to wiggle the upper arm out.

Step 5 – Now you can remove the Suspension Cone taking note of the way it comes out. The new and old one will look very different, the old one being squashed! The difference in height is mainly due to the weight of the engine, over time, compressing the Cone.

Step 6 – Refitting. The next step is to insert the new Suspension Cone in place. These will be awkward to insert into the sub frame and you will again probably loose skin from your hands! Now wind it up using the compression tool (help holding the cone in place is useful here). I have found before this step it is helpful to ensure the thread of the new cone is clear from rubber residue. Screw the compression tool into the cone while it is out of the car to ensure the thread is clean and easy to start once in place on the car.

Step 7 – Next is to slide the Upper Arm back in place and fit the Knuckle Joint up into the lower recess of the cone up inside the sub frame. If you are simply replacing the existing Cones there is no reason not to use the same knuckle joint. The fitting of all the nuts, bolts and pins is tricky as access behind the inner wing is limited. It is at this point you lose more skin and think perhaps it would have been easier to remove the engine and sub frame! You have got this far so soldier on.

Step 8 – Now everything is back in place is would be a good idea to check and tighten everything and grease each nipple, the upper & lower ball joint and then the top arm. Slowly release the Rubber Cone, carefully unwinding the Compression Tool. Next you can replace the sub frame tower bolt (tightening it to the required torque setting). Then refit you wheel!

The car will sit high at the front and may take a couple of weeks to settle. You can avoid the 4x4 look if you wish by replacing the cone trumpets with adjustable ones. This will allow you adjust the suspension back down, winding it back up once it has settled. It would have sat up for a bit when it left the factory so it's not a major issue.

Hope this helps!

H13JKR
9 years ago
H13JKR 9 years ago

Pics

Before!
[IMG]http://imageshack.us/a/img217/2148/photolow.jpg[/IMG]

After! Dont worry they will settle!:)
[IMG]http://imageshack.us/a/img824/4176/photohigh.jpg[/IMG]

crimper
9 years ago
crimper 9 years ago

suspension springs

Thank you for the information ,however that is not my question.The heading was as above I know how, I've done it before,but wanted views on what others had fitted and quality of ride it gave. (not coilovers)

crimper
9 years ago
crimper 9 years ago

suspension

Sorry for previousreply H13JKR I looked at wrong thread,my question is in help not how to do it.

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