Changing a steering rack (13 replies)
Yeah I understand what you mean, but having taken the wheel off, with the rotary switch and the indicator cam being seperate, I think there's scope for adjusting the wheel on the splines.
Only one way to find out! 😀
I'm ready now to fit the TRE's now. What do you think I should set it up to - 9 turns each side and go from there?
By the way, which manual are you getting all this good info from?
ETA The Haynes makes reference to the 6mm peg being inserted into a hole in the rack through a hole in the heelboard. I can see where this is on the old rack, but there is no provision for this on the recon unit. Am I right in thinking this is for ensuring the rack is in the central position? If so, I'm sure I can get around that :)[/QUOTE]
I have a copy of the 2001 RAVE Rover manual on CD. It is what was issued to main dealers for workshop use. I picked it up on Ebay a few years ago. When I do stuff on my car I just print off what I need, it's especially useful for electrical problems. I am sure they are still avaliable if you search on Ebay. I've also got all the older manuals on CD as well.
The 6mm peg is to lock the rack in th ecentral location. As far as I am aware this method of locking the rack has been on Minis since the Mark II, so I am not sure why your replacement does not have it. I guess you will just have to carry out the adjustments without locking the rack.
Good luck and hope you get your insurance problems sorted.
Dave I had a eurika moment in the shower last night after posting my last update (Stop sniggering at the back).
Given the pinch bolt recess, you mean it'll be easier to remove the column from the rack and turn the whole column to straighten the wheel, as opposed to removing all the airbag, cam, rotary switch etc, yes?
I hope so anyway, 'cause thats what I've done!
I finished off the steering rack tonight. I've guesstimated the TRE fitments, so that the discs look correct (i.e. pointing straight ahead). This worked out at 10.5 turns NSF, 11.5 turns OSF. I can live with that amount of difference, but can't understand the greater difference of the old TRE's, unless it was to try and straighten the wheel as suggested. The other strange thing is how little difference (1 turn) there is left-to-right, after the wheels were so far out after the accident :confused:. Perhaps the was damage to the rack?
One quick word about the poly bushes, the rear (front) subframe mounts were thicker than the original rubber/steel ones. This necessitated the longer bolts, but because they are thicker the holes in the subframe didn't line up when it was jacked back up. I did (briefly!) think about elongating the holes in the subframe, but quickly dismissed this. The answer was to have the bolts only just long enough to do the job (I used a large washer on either side and a spring washer uderneath the nut) and to jack up the subframe incrementally. That is, up a little bit, push/screw in the bolt a little, until the bolt is fully home and the nut can be placed on the thread. This does mean that the poly bush is slightly distorted, but I look at this as the extra friction will aid in retaining the nut. The distortion is minimal. While the subframe was lowered I took the oportunity to change the tower top bushes too.
Oh, and I use new nuts/bolts/washers wherever possible.
So the steering rack isn't nearly as bad as I was expecting, I was able to fit new bushes as a bonus (I hope you Mk1/2 mini owners appreciate the trouble I've gone to to get your set up :D) - knuckle joints and top arms tomorrow!